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Flinn wrote off more than $1,000 in dental work
and Faroghat, no less reserved, began to eat and to smile. For her, the
four-hour sessions at Rice University and Houston Community College became
considerably more tolerable than a root canal, one of the services Flinn
performed.
Back home, the six English teachers had achieved
considerable notoriety by winning a nation-wide competition to travel
to the U.S. to hone their teaching skills. They even appeared on national
television. In Houston, gracious hosts entertained them in gracious settings
more than half-a-world removed from their circumstances in gritty factory
towns and remote villages where dentists are scarcer than hen's teeth.
On weekends, they visited Galveston Island, the
museums and NASA, attended the theater and a baseball game. Ever tried
to explain scoring to a non-baseball-literate foreigner at a 2-1 game?
Each Sunday, they attended church with their hosts. Mostly, they worked
on becoming better teachers, because improving the lot of everyone back
home depends in no small measure on developing the population's English
skills. Recognizing the imperative of fluency in the lingua franca of
our day, their homeland begins English instruction at the elementary level.
Jorge Medina of Houston Community College drilled
them in teaching methods and Beti Gonzalez of the MRDS staff taught a
literature curriculum designed by James Clark, also of MRDS. Following
the example of Toxir, the only university professor in the group, all
the teachers scooped up every scrap of instructional material they could
lay hands on.
In a flash, the month was up and they were at the
Wilsons' home in West University Place for a farewell party. Faroghat,
Muhabbat and Saodot were a silky swirl of yellow, orange and red in their
national dress and David Teall, one of the hosts, was smartly turned out
in a pillbox hat presented by Saodot, laughing as always. Muhabat, a short,
robust woman with flying hands, provided choreography, dragging reluctant
Americans onto the floor to dance to the pulsing rhythms of the music
of their homeland.
Ikboljon, a quiet man, spoke of how he yearned
to see his wife and two children. Beti Gonzalez was radiant in one of
the silk dresses, made by Ikboljon's wife, whose skill as a seamstress
matched her husband's talent as a dancer. When the quiet man was coaxed
onto the floor, he glided with the grace of glass, as though on ice skates.
Each of the visiting teachers accepted a certificate
of completion of the training program from Beti and made a short speech.
Yulia's voice broke as she poured out her thanks. Faroghat explained in
English that she would deliver hers in her native tongue, and Toxir rose
to translate. Faroghat remained a little stiff, but she was far more comfortable.
--Ed Fowler

Millennium's Beti Gonzalez in Central Asian dress with Ikboljon.
Katarina
and Scott's Story
Katarina thought the men might be German. They
wore red uniforms and businesslike expressions that weren't unpleasant.
They walked briskly out into the street and stopped traffic in both directions.
People emerged from their cars to see what was going on and a story spread
up and down the street that someone had been found alive.
On the curb, thronged around the rubble of a building,
hundreds more waited. They had little else to do. Those whose homes remained
couldn't return and many had no workplace any more, just a jumble of twisted
beams and overturned desks somewhere in a city called Golcuk. The name
remained, and little pieces of the city here and there.
These people had seen the men in red uniforms arrive
and knew the status of the operation, knew that no one had yet been found
in the wreckage. The listening hadn't even begun. With the traffic stopped,
the crew could switch on their ultra-sensitive devices that could push
an ear into the chaos of concrete and steel and detect the tiniest answering
tap. All they needed was a noise vacuum up and down the street, and it
arrived as though descending on a movie set. Lights, silence, camera.
The living were as still as the dead. "Everybody
was so quiet," said Katarina, "almost like people didn't dare to breathe."
The audience had invaded the plot, everyone listening
as though he would pick up the faintest thump-thump of a heartbeat through
the listeners' headsets, as though if he just strained hard enough he
might perceive the still, small voice of God. Dark, unshaved men in plaid
shirts and women in head scarves and sad eyes cocked their ears as though
they could listen up a miracle, and a child sneezed.
"It echoed down the street," said Katarina, "but
no one started yelling at him. It just got quiet again. They listened
a long, long, long time."
But they never heard.
The cars roared back to life and moved on and people
went back to talking and smoking as the men in red packed up and headed
off to another site to listen some more.
Katarina, a Swede, and her American husband Scott
Breslin, both MRDS workers, live with their four children in Istanbul,
where they have served for 13 years.
They returned from a seven-week leave in Scott's
hometown in Virginia the night of the earthquake and got the kids to sleep
at 2 a.m. The earthquake hit an hour later, and Katarina's first memory
is of struggling to maintain her balance. "I woke up when I was out of
bed, trying to get through the bedroom door, but it was hard to walk.
I had started to go toward the kids' rooms, but I couldn't walk . . .
it lasted a long time . . . they say 45 seconds . . . forever."
The lights went out and she made it into the hall,
where she bumped into her daughter. Then she was able to climb the stairs
to the upper floor of their two-level apartment, where she roused the
boys from an earthquake-proof sleep. Everyone groped in the dark for shoes
and clothes as neighbors banged on their door, yelling in Turkish, "Get
out! Get out! Get out!"
On the street, people switched on car radios and
heard the first reports: "Big earthquake . . . as many as 300 dead." The
family spent that night and the next two in a park just up the street,
unthreatened by buildings, with hundreds of neighbors, never getting more
than a few hours of fitful sleep that hardly dented their jet lag. At
that point, 14-year-old Daniel mounted an irrefutable case to return to
their apartment: "Let's go home. If it happens again, we'll go be with
Jesus." After one night in their own beds, two more quakes elsewhere in
the country raised the alarm again and they took refuge once more in the
park.
That first morning, Scott checked in with the U.S.
Embassy in Ankara, which directed him to a crisis desk at the Istanbul
airport. As foreign teams began arriving with listening devices and dogs
trained to find those buried alive by scent, neither available in Turkey,
he began touring the hardest-hit areas to assess damage and needs. In
Golcuk, he found whole blocks devastated. In other areas, the 7.4 temblor
had left a streetscape that spoke of a rocket attack. "One building here
pancaked, two next to it undamaged," he said, "then two buildings flat
and the next three perfect." In places, he saw houses collapsed "like
sandwiches."
In his neighborhood on the eastern side of Istanbul,
the worst damage was a toppled minaret. Other areas, farther from the
epicenter, lay in ruin. Katarina accompanied him on some of the trips,
giving comfort where she could to those who could accept it. Most wanted
to talk, few knew what to say. One woman told her in a flat voice, "My
brother and two of his children died but I don't feel anything. What's
wrong with me?" Another kept staring up into the tree she was living under,
saying, "The leaves are moving too fast, it's coming again."
Not everyone who endured the quake remains in shock
but none escapes the fear. Scott, whose wide shoulders still suggest,
at 41, the college wrestler he once was, can't silence the sound of the
aftershocks. "You wouldn't feel them at first, even if you were standing
on the ground, but -- it was weird -- you could hear them coming. Maybe
it was the sound from the other buildings. Whatever, you heard it before
you felt the shake."
Some who came in contact with the dead have broken
out in rashes. A week after the quake, resident foreign development workers
convened at a hotel on the Aegean coast, outside the quake zone. In one
meeting, several who had lived through the temblor stiffened as they sensed
a rumble in the ceiling, only to realize a cart was rolling past on the
floor above. Their deliberations on long-term needs produced a consensus
that trauma counseling rates a high priority.
Katarina recalled a woman in her early 20s rescued
as the nation watched the drama unfold on television three or four days
after the quake. A fallen beam had just missed her head but had pinned
her hair to the floor, her neck contorted, so that she couldn't move.
The camera zoomed in on a gray face, eyes closed, and then one eye opened
and viewers saw rescuers cut her hair to free her and carry her out.
Some time later, television showed her in a
hospital
bed. Her fiancé wore a grim look at her side but the young woman was laughing.
"It was so good to see her in such good spirits," Katarina said.
"Of course, I don't know what she's like now."
--Ed Fowler
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